Simplicity easy chic suit 4885: Part 1

First things first – the pattern:

http://www.simplicity.com/Search.aspx?SearchTerm=4885&x=0&y=0



I have previously made the pants, quite successfully and the skirt, less successfully. I have a First Draft* of the jacket and a muslin of the top on the mannequin, and it’s my intention to make a complete 3 piece suit form this pattern together with a couple of the tops.
I decided to have another go at the skirt, using some mystery green suiting fabric that has matured nicely in my collection. I checked my measurements and decided that I fall between the 20 – 22 sizes on this pattern. Then I remembered something from Carolyn’s interview on Gertie’s blog, and took my waist, hip and thigh measurements while sitting down – after all, I want this to be a skirt for working, and I work sitting down. Based on the sitting measurements, I decided to cut the size 22. If it turned out too big (as the first one did) I could always cut it down half-a-size.
After cutting the pieces, I pinned together the main skirt part, leaving off the flounce. Looking in the mirror, standing, walking and sitting, it seems to be the right size.
Next I cut the interfacing and pinned it to the skirt facings. That’s enough work on the skirt today.
Next I returned to the top muslin. I had previously pinned it in where I thought it was a bit loose around the bust/back. Again keeping Carolyn’s advice in mind, I tried the top on sitting down. This helped me to decide that I had taken it in too much and it was a little bit too snug for sitting and typing in at work. So, I will be taking it in about 2 ¾ cm at each underarm seam, but only at the under arm for about 4 -5 cm; the rest seems right. Next I’ll sew up the new seams, and get Hubby to pin me in where the zip goes to double check.
Finally, I pinned in the shoulder pads I bought for the jacket. I had previously suspect the shoulders are too broad, and with the shoulder pads in pace, I am quite sure they need to be taken in by about 1.5 cm. SO I have unpicked the sleeves and will be fiddling with about resetting them in an effort to find the right fit.

*A First Draft is when I hope to both work out fit issues and that the garment turns out presentable and wearable, but use inexpensive fabric in case I have to bin it.